Among the sho or die games, yam is the most commonly played by Bhutanese men. In spite of the introduction of many indoor board games and other forms of entertainment, the yam die game remains popular. It is not clear when the game reached Bhutan, let alone who introduced it, but it is believed that early traders who travelled to Tibet for business brought the game to Bhutan.

The game can be played by two to four persons. Each player competes against the other players, and although some individuals may collude with others, it is not a team game. The game requires sixty-four small cowrie shells and two six-faced die. The cowrie shells are laid out on a thick mat in a loose row.

Each player should have his own set of nine coins or pellets that are distinct from those of the other players. The objective of the game is to reach all nine coins through the line of cowrie shells to the other end. It is very complex game, which requires quick thinking, calculation, and rapid execution. During the first round, each player can stack up two coins at a time as the base or home position. The coins are placed at point past the cowrie shells corresponding to the sum total of the notches on the dice. As they play on, one can stack up as many coins as possible at one’s home (the start), throw in new ones, or move the coins already on the board depending on the number of notches on the dice.

If player’s throw lands his markers on a spot already occupied by another player, he can oust the existing coins at that position and replace them with his own, provided his stack of coins is equal to or larger than those in that position. The person who succeeds in pushing all his coins through the line of cowrie shells is declared the winner, and it is to one’s advantage to be able to stack as many coins as possible.

The game is amusing and captivating because the player can show craftiness in ousting others and stacking their coins by dividing the number of notches. When a player ousts the another’s coin or stacks his own, he gets an extra turn throwing the die. The game is entertaining and boisterous as the players chant out special names for the numbers and also utter various idiomatic or onomatopoeic expressions as they throw the dice and move their coins. The language of the game is both poetic and obscene, and can provoke much excitement. The dice is rolled in a cup which is hit hard on the mat causing a loud thudding sound. Due to its noisy nature and often provocative language, yam is generally restricted to being played in more private places.

The players also often have a large bet amongst themselves. Thus, the game often becomes heated and there are also cases of fraudulent moves and other trickery. Yam is generally played by men and women do not take part in it although some gambling dens are run by women, who charge fees for food and space.

Sonam Chopel and Karma Phuntsho. Sonam Chophel was a researcher for Shejun Agency for Bhutan’s Cultural Documentation and Research, and Karma Phuntsho is a social thinker and worker, the President of the Loden Foundation and the author of many books and articles including The History of Bhutan.